Lalibela's 11 rock-hewn churches are unbelievable. You really have to see it with your own eyes to believe it even exists.
Lalibela ranks as one of the world's greatest religious historical sites in the Christian world and has earned a UNESCO Heritage badge. To protect most of the churches from the sun and rain, a scaffolding and roof have been built above them.
Not only does this place draw foreign tourists and TV producers worldwide (there is a Canadian team from Quebec here now filming a children's show), Lalibela is the centre of pilgrimage for many Ethiopian Orthodox Christians and during major festivals, this place is swarming.
Originally known as Roha (the town was only renamed "Lalibela" after King Lalibela's death), this was the Zagwe dynasty's capital in the 12th and 13th century. There are various legends which explain why these amazing churches were built, all in such close proximity and supposedly within a span of 23 years!
One claims that King Lalibela was exiled to Jersusalem in fear of persecution from his older half-brother, and impressed by the buildings he saw, vowed to replicate a "New Jerusalem" when he returned. Another says that the 11 churches were visions that Lalibela saw from God and so felt obliged to recreate them in reality.
Whatever the reason, the exceptional architecture and unique characteristics of each church still astounds visitors and historians alike.
Mafiz was our guide: 26 year old, a biology teacher by profession but due to the fact that Lalibela residents can make more money by being a tour guide, he decided to go to Tourism College for two years, and after passing his examination, has been working as a qualified Lalibela guide ever since. His wish is to make enough money, get more qualified as a teacher and return to doing what he truly loves.
Our day consisted of visiting the 11 amazing medieval churches, going through tunnels and small passageways, admiring the paintings on the walls and ceilings of the churches, paying tribute to each priest in each church (all very serene and calm in their old age),
Outside it was hot and dry, but inside the churches there was a cool air mixed with smells of incense and beeswax candles.
Our shoe-keeper earned a decent 20 birr from each of us for ensuring our shoes weren't stolen while we were inside the churches. Most of these shoe-minders are high school students (but why aren't they in school?) and all have been registered and wear an official "shoe-keeper" identification card around their necks. There is no way around not employing a shoe-keeper; everyone has to do it.
After the tour, we went to pick up Matt's sandals that were being mended in town. A new rubber tire sole had been nailed the the old one and now they were just like new!
We wished Mafiz luck in his future, paid him the 300 Birr guiding fee for the day, plus a tip, and went on our way.
After a delicious freshly squeezed mango and strawberry juice at the Seven Olives Hotel, we walked back to our hotel, but not without buying a few souvenirs to take home. We haven't actually been buying anything during our journey, but that's due mainly to the fact that we're driving for the better part of the day. We're not actually "tourists" but "Land Rover mechanics on the road" (or so says Christoph).
What has been really pleasantly surprising is the minimal hassle from children we've received during our stay in Lalibela. We were warned by other tourists and Overlanders that kids here are everywhere with their hands out and pleading with you to give them pens, Carmella, Highland (bottles), Dollars or money. One Norwegian cyclist had his helmet cracked in half when a big rock was pushed over a ledge by kids as he cycled by on the road underneath!
A smile goes a long way anywhere in the world, and it definitely helps that Foxy is so colourful and cheery herself. For the most part, we found Lalibela residents to be very friendly, waving at us, saying "Hello" or "Salam" or "Welcome You to my hometown!"
Start: Roha Hotel, Lalibela, ETH.
End: Roha Hotel, Lalibela, ETH.
Distance Traveled: -
Road Conditions: -
Temperature: hot, dry
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