right side of the fence

Last night we slept with the other Wadi Halfan residents outside under the bright stars and fluorescent mosque lights, and believe it or not, we were cold!

We couldn't stand the heat and stuffiness of our room anymore and decided to partake in this nightly slumber party outside where everyone drags their string bed into the sandy lot and claims their spot. Sheets and pillows are brought out and after an evening wash, we all climb into bed en masse.

The wind provided a cool breeze all night (no chance of that shutting off between 1-4am) and after all the outdoor tea shops and television stations were closed down, all you could hear were the dogs barking and the sound of the occasional motor-trike zooming by.

It was so pleasant. Why didn't we do this two nights ago?

We arrived at the ferry pier around noon and waited in the lounge with everyone else. There were well over 500 people already and it was incredible to see so many women and children again after days of only interacting with men. While men spend most of their time in public with other men, women live very private lives indoors. It was refreshing to see so much colour and movement once more.

After our passports and exit papers were stamped, we boarded the ferry feeling a bit like cattle being herded. We found our cabin (Number Two) and waited some more. It was 3pm already but only after another two hours did we finally set sail.

There was no beer to speak of. We should've known it was too good to be true. Well, if you've already abstained for two weeks, what's another day?

Counting our blessings, at least the air-conditioner rumour proved to be true. Plus it was functioning!

I am happy, content. I catch myself letting out a big sigh of relief a few times each day. We are in SUDAN, imagine that! I wake up every morning and the first thing that flashes in my mind is "What country am I in? What city?"

I have to remind myself sometimes that I am truly fortunate to be on a once-in-a-lifetime trip like this one, and some heat, dust and smelly ablutions won't scar me forever.

The saying goes "The grass is usually greener on the other side", but I like my pastures just fine over here, thank you.



Start: Deffintoad Hotel, Wadi Halfa, SUDAN.
End: somewhere on Lake Nasser, EGYPT.
Distance Traveled: guessing 50 km or so on Lake Nasser, northwards
Road Conditions: calm waters
Temperature: hot and sticky outside; chilly in room with our air-con with one setting (ON or OFF) but no complaints